Exploring Devonport and Waiheke Island

Take to the water for the short (10 minute) trip to Devonport, or a day out on Waiheke Island (the ferry there takes 35 minutes).

DEVONPORT 
Sleepy Devonport – famously the one-time stomping ground of New Zealand music icon Lorde – is known for its scenic seaside charm and naval history.

Introduce yourself to the military history of North Head at Maungauika (North Head Historic Reserve), a now-disused defence base. To walk from one end to the other will take roughly an hour. You’ll arrive near Torpedo Bay Navy Museum (64 King Edward Parade), which collects and preserves New Zealand Navy memorabilia, weaponry and other historically significant artifacts. There’s also the Devonport Museum (33 Vaxhaull Rd), which specialises in artefacts pertaining to the history of Devonport.

Catch a glimpse back towards the central city from the top of Takarunga/Mt Victoria (off Victoria Rd), a leisurely – albeit steep – walk from Kerr St. Dating back to 1912, the Vic Theatre (48 Victoria Rd) is a lovely art deco building and worth a stop if you're keen on an arthouse movie, or just to admire the refurbished white stone façade.

Stop for coffee and lunch at Lily Eatery (12 Wynyard St), try the all-day offerings at Vondel (8 Victoria Rd), enjoy an ice cream from Cheltenham Milk Bar (64 Vauxhall Rd) or an afternoon beer at Tiny Triumphs (5 Clarence St). For dinner, try rustic Mediterranean fare at Vic Road Kitchen (57-59 Victoria Rd), or fish and chips (and more) from The Kestrel (1/1 Queens Rd). They're best eaten on the beach.

GETTING THERE: Nab a seat on the passenger ferry. It runs from the ferry terminal at the bottom of Queen St between downtown Auckland and Devonport roughly every hour during the week, and slightly less frequently on the weekends and public holidays. You can also whip over the Auckland Harbour Bridge on a bus. Any of the following will get you there: 13, 815, 779, 803 or 804. All run frequently.

WAIHEKE ISLAND
Not so much a suburb but an idyllic island escape, Waiheke Island is worth a whole day of your time (or more if you can spare it). Just a 35-minute ferry ride from downtown, it’s known for its friendly locals, secluded beaches and, perhaps most importantly, wine.

You’d be hard-pressed to have a conversation about Waiheke Island in Auckland without someone uttering the word “wine.” The island is big – 92 square kilometres – and peppered with vineyards. At the far (eastern) end of the island, Man O War (725 Man O War Rd) does great wine and is the prettiest place on the entire island for a picnic lunch. Mudbrick Vineyard (126 Church Bay Rd, Oneroa) does an elegant viognier, while Kennedy Point Vineyard (44 Donald Bruce Rd, Surfdale) is Waiheke’s only certified organic vineyard, and serves local Te Matuku oysters by the dozen.

Tantalus Estate (70-72 Onetangi Rd, Onetangi) features some lovely Rhone Valley varietals and award-winning food. Hidden in plain sight below it is Alibi Brewers Lounge, the Estate’s brewery and speakeasy bar.

If the weather’s good, we suggest you intersperse your drinking with a visit to the beach. Waiheke has plenty of unforgettable strips of sand, including safe and easy swimming in the wide-open spaces of Onetangi, or a slightly more intimate seascape at Palm Beach and neighbouring Little Palm (Little Palm is clothing-optional). There’s also lovely Sandy Bay, which has some shady spots under the gnarled pōhutukawa trees.

There are also plenty of good places to eat. Position yourself amongst the olive grove at Casita Miro (3 Brown Rd, Onetangi), or take a pew in the dining room overlooking the sea at Three Seven Two (21 The Strand, Onetangi), with its seasonally driven menu. Auckland chef Josh Emett now runs The Oyster Inn (124 Oceanview Rd, Oneroa) and has devised a menu worth celebrating.

Then, there are the countless food trucks that patrol the place looking for hungry punters. One of the first, now semi-permanent, is Dragonfired Pizza (1 Goodwin Ave, Oneroa) overlooking Little Oneroa. For a sweet treat, only the fanciest flavours make the cut at Island Gelato (124 Oceanview Rd, Oneroa).

GETTING THERE: There’s something special about riding on the top deck of the ferry to Waiheke Island. It leaves from the Downtown Ferry Terminal – you can find the full timetable at fullers.co.nz. Waiheke Island is big, so it’s important to think through your transport options when you’re there, whether it’s hiring a car, scooter or taking a bicycle, or using the local bus system. The Visit Waiheke site provides a good overview.

Lily Eatery

Cheltenham Milk Bar

Island Gelato

Matiatia Wharf ferry terminal on Waiheke Island

Man O War

Dragonfired Pizza

Three Seven Two

Tantalus Estate